Brunch at 5 Corners Kitchen

After our amazing wolf experience, we were ravenous. And all the talk of meat (and discovery of various bones cleaned dry of marrow) had left us wanting to indulge, carnivore-style.

So we went to Marblehead for brunch.

Okay, more specifically, we headed to 5 Corners Kitchen, where Trevor does genius things with sausage and bacon (and, frankly, everything else he touches).

We'd had dinner at 5 Corners Kitchen when it first opened, and had been looking for a reason to return.

When we arrived, Trevor was handing out samples of housemade sausage with lentils and mustard to passers-by. It was only a taste, but it was enough to remind me how good this place is.

First, brunchy drinks: mimosa for me, bloody Mary for The Boy. His celery garnish was noticeably fresher and crunchier than the supermarket variety.

And then, before we could order, Trevor appeared with plates of smoked salmon topped with boiled egg, capers, crème fraiche and red onion.



I was going to order something good and meaty — and then I noticed the brioche french toast. So that was me sorted.



The toast was like bread pudding, rich and eggy. The blueberries were warm and fragrant and summery.

The Boy stayed true to meat, and ordered the classic breakfast: sausage, eggs, homefries, toast.



Oh, the sausage. Like nothing else.



And an unexpected side of crisp, delicate bacon. Homemade, of course.



And then, another surprise. A densely fruited tarte tatin with crème fraiche and caramel, flecked with fresh thyme.

"I know you want to hold on to summer," said Trevor, "but here's something to lead you into fall."



If there was ever a way to make the transition, this was it.

When to go to Craigie on Main

We love Craigie on Main, but dining there usually requires planning. I mean yes, you could make a spontaneous decision to turn up in Central Square one evening, but you'd better be ready either to make intimate, elbowy new friends at the bar or wait an hour for a table.

And then today, we had a revelation: brunch.

(I know; some of you are all like, Well duh! And I'm like, okay, I get it.)

Brunch at Craigie means the same attention to detail, creativity, freshness and richness — oh, and cocktails — and a much better chance of being able to walk in the door and get a table.

(At this point I should add a disclaimer: we did go the Sunday before Thanksgiving. Occupancy at other times may vary. Call ahead.)

So what did we have?

First, a doughnut. There, I said it. Fresh warm doughnut, glazed with sugar, on a pool of confiture de lait (aka dulce de leche). As an appetizer.



And to make it totally healthy, a nice side of macerated fruit salad with yogurt.



It was hard to choose an entree; organic white grits with baconed-up greens and rock shrimp? Buttermilk pancakes with huckleberries? Omelette with house-made merguez and feta?

Okay, it really wasn't that difficult. There were two immediate winners.

The Boy went for the house-brined corned beef and tongue hash, which was deep and rich and fantastic.



And I had the house-made "dimanche" sausage with buttermilk biscuit and a poached egg.



Lordy, just uploading the photos makes my mouth water. The sausage had a satisfying, addictive pâté-like texture, and the flavor was subtle and complex, with lovely dark hints (possibly liver).

Whoever makes the sausage at Craigie is a god among men.

The biscuit was fluffy, with a slightly crisp crust, perfect for soaking up egg yolk.



Sadly, we were too full for dessert. I was also intrigued by the side dishes, especially the coriander and cashew granola and the grilled pork belly. (Yes, pork belly as a side dish. Would you ever go back to bacon after that?)

But now we know we have much better odds of getting a table at Craigie on Main on a Sunday afternoon, I suspect I'll get to check them out soon.